okumé Gane translates from the Japanese as 'eye of the wood grain'
Pure metal and its alloys is being used to create mokumé gane objects. Jewellery is mainly crafted in combinations of gold, silver, palladium and copper.
Here some of the unusual metal combinations that are being used in mokumé gane:
Shakudo - The most widely used alloy in traditional manufacturing; it is generally accepted as 4% to 5% gold in copper
Shibuishi - meaning one fourth, the alloy consists of one part silver to three parts copper. There are several grades ranging from 50% silver down to 13.5%
Kuromido - It is composed of 1% arsenic in copper. The metal is slighter darker and harder than copper.

The quite labour intensive process begins by fusing together multiple layers of alternating metals.
The layers or billet is forged and rolled out, reducing the thickness until the individual layers become very thin. Further forging and carving exposes the layers which present a fine moiré or wood grain pattern.

okumé Gane was developed in Japan about 300 years ago. Here, the Zen Buddhist and Shinto religion were based around the cult of the sword and was accepted as a way of life and also the path to spiritual enlightenment. The importance of the sword raised their metal techniques to a highly developed art form and the invention of mokumé gane one of the astonishing techniques developed by the Japanese craftsmen.

It was not until the early 1970s when Eugen and Hiroko Pijanowski of the United States studied the traditional technique of making mokumé gane in Japan. For many years they passed on their knowledge through lectures and workshops to western craftspeople which generated an explosion of artistic experimentation.

Mokumé Gane is created by hand only and in a world that relies vastly on machine produced objects, it has become something of a rarity that can only be found in jewellery workshops that hand forge.

okumé Gane jewellery @ ANPA
We started to experiment and work with mokumé gane several years ago and by now have gained vast experience that enables us to offer our clients a high quality and refined product.

Mokumé gane lends itself to create beautiful engagement rings and wedding bands, specifially men are drawn to the subtle and intricate patterns that are so specific to this craft. Stunning results can be achieved by combining the mokumé gane technique with gems such as tourmaline, garnet or white, brown and black diamonds in solitaire and multiple designs.

We generally will create bespoke rings according to clients' wishes but mostly have a small selection of ready made examples in store.
Our ready made range includes rings, cuffs and pendants in different metal combinations.